It is interesting that you bring this up here. There were three articles in the latest digital photography special magazine published by heise (
https://www.heise.de/kiosk/special/ct/08/08/) mentioning that you really should use sharpening in the Luminance channel. One of the articles mentioned that only the Value channel of HSV was usable for this, other article mentioned the Luminance challen of LAB, too.
Not sure if this makes much difference as you will adjust the sharpening strength depending the selected channel. The decisive point here is that you sharpen only using Luminance/Lightness preventing colour fringes or anything similar.
Of course you will get halos using the L-channel, too. But there is a nice way to sharpen a photo in the Value/Luminance channel without decomposing it:
copy the layer, sharpen it (a bit more than wanted), put it in "Value" mode over the original layer and adjust the amount of sharpness using the opacity slider. This method is mentioned by monoceros84, too. It does not matter by the way if you are using here the layer copy in value mode or a gray tone copy of the luminance/value (which you like more) in value mode.
To prevent halos, there is another nice way. Keep in mind that halos are disturbing much more if they are bright as if they are dark. "Dark halos" are almost harmless. Create two copies of the photo to sharpen (to prevent to sharpen the colours I think you'll achieve the best results using the black and white Luminance/Value channels). Sharpen both of them using the unsharp mask (exaggerate a little bit). Set on of those layers to "Darken only" and one to "Lighten only". Now you can control the "dark and light halos" as you wish using the opacity channels.
Using only the darkening mode sometimes gives a bit strange light. So I recommend (in most cases) to use the lightening mode, too, but with definitely less opacity to prevent bright halos.
Another idea: You can do this with two sharpened layers in value mode (as explained above), too, giving to one of the layers a grayscale copy of the image itself as layer mask and to the other one a inverted (negative) grayscale copy.
P.S.: Ah, and, of course, don't forget to add a mask preventing the noisy areas of your photo of beeing sharpened, if there are. Using the last "idea" I am mentioning here this would result in creating a mask for the mask... :-)